This set of pictures show the finished version of the driver and passenger side shock towers after the rust repair. Also pictures of the rear section of the car. Notice the bumperette holes removed.
November 2000 Archives
More body work continues. The cab section of the car is down and now the rear portion of the car is being worked on. Some of the problems being fixed are the rear shock towers that usually rust near the frame as the towers were never drilled for drainage. Also the rear deck lid has a minor ding and some holes need to be filled where the old delta wing used mount. There is also a rust spot in the roof of the car near the back hinges. The roof will be cut open cleaned out and coated then sealed back up with new metal.
Below is the work progressing on fixing the rear shock towers, drivers side, the worst side.
Here is the SCAT stroker crankshaft sitting next to the stock 351C piece. The stroker piece is a 4" stroke with 3" main journal size and chevy size crank pins. The journals wil have be turned down to 2.749" for use in the stock block. At this point I am hoping to buy an SVO block. You can buy the block with either main journal sizes, 3" or 2.749". Most people prefer the smaller diameter journal size due to the amount of heat built up from the larger journal.
Here is a picture of the A3 heads I propose to use on the 408 stroker. I also have aquired a SCAT crank that is stroked to 4" and uses chevy size connecting rod journals. I have purchased two different manifolds for the heads but the Roush was ported out so bad I would have to fill the runners with metal to get it to port match. So I bought another Edelbrock manifold in new condition that I was planning on using.
As of recently though I started thinking about the block and whether or not I really want to use my old CobraJet block. It's a four bolt main block and has not been overbored as far as I can tell. But I don't want to rebuild the motor ever again, that is I want to build this thing once. For $1700 you can buy an SVO block that uses the smaller journal crank main bearings and windsor front assembly. The SVO block can be bored over safely, is stronger, has better oiling system, and cooling system. Also you can get the aluminum version ( Z351 ) from Race Parts Distribution for around $3k. The Z351 can be bored and stroked to accomodate 427 cubes! If budget allows I think this is the best option. Of couse I would only stroke/bore it to 400 or 408 cubes, which should leave me with a very strong, trouble free block. At least thats the plan.
This next pictures show the passenger side rear quarter panel patch above the rocker panel, and the new front frender section near the rocker panel.
After this work is finished the rear section of the car is next with a rust spot in the roof fixed, the rear wheel towers, and misc holes needed be plugged where previous owners got "drill" happy. The whole cab section of the car is done. After the rear section is done then the front section of the car follows.
More progress is being made on the rusty bucket. I say that with the upmost sincerity. The driver side cab section is complete. The door has been mounted and all panels roughly shaped in. On the drivers side the inner, middle, and outer rocker panels were replaced, plus the floorboard. Also the door jam had to be fabricated and a small section of the rear quarter right in front of the rear tire. Additionally the firewall was replaced. The firewall wasn't really rusty but I wanted a stronger piece of metal there then originally came in the car.
So work has now started on the passenger side which is in much better condition then the drivers. The inner and middle rocker are salvagable. I already have a new outer rocker to replace the old rusty, foam filled one that is on the car. This side of the car actually had mud, dirt, and debris in the rocker panel and was still WET! Debris enters throught the hole in the rear of the rocker where the air conditioning lines go and floods the rocker. Its only a matter of time before enough silt gets into the rocker to plug the drain holes. A better design would be to route the air conditioning lines going into the rocker from the bottom up, not the top down.
These next pictures show the new floorboards and the new firewall. The floorpans are dropped floor pans but I wanted to be able to move the seat forwards and backwards so the floorboards are only slightly recessed.
There has been some talk on the pantera email list lately about saving rusty pantera's. I am guilty of purchasing a project but that was what I was looking for. A potential owner must be aware that these thirty year old cars are almost always in need of work. How much work your willing to do the car, and how much of a project you are willing to tolerate should be your guiding factors in making your purchasing decision. You can see my archives for the story of this car. For the medium level of rust on the car it was still a $17,000 car. Even after a year of ownership and all the work I have put into it I still believe it was worth $15,000.
